Imperial shags

After enjoying the packed lunch we had been given sitting in a sheltered sunny spot beside some tussac grass we headed off along the north coast of the island which was steeper and more rugged with sea cliffs and reminded us of Pembrokeshire (apart from the numerous penguins popping into their burrows!). We had been told we would pass a colony of imperial or king shags but were not prepared for the sight of thousands of them all in a small area, and again they seemed unperturbed by us only a few feet from them.

Their nests are built on piles of hardened mud, and presumably droppings, which they obviously return to each year, and are almost touching each other. They were making nests of seaweed but largely seemed to be stealing it from each other and there were some vigorous tugs of war going on.

The fishy smell was very strong but they were beautiful, especially when seen close up. With iridescent black backs and white fronts, they have large orange knobs above their beaks and violet coloured eye rings.

We then headed up the steep north facing slope (the sunny side in this part of the world) and saw some of the first spring flowers including a ladies slipper which has yellow slipper shaped flowers with a red edge, slightly like a tiny foxglove. We scrambled up to the highest peak - Mount Byng from where we had a great view of the surrounding islands and mainland coast. We saw 2 crested caracaras, the same family as the Johnny Rooks, but much more wary of people and living in isolated pairs.

By the time we had walked back down to the settlement we were ready for a shower and dinner and an early night. We had been blessed by a dry day with intervals of sunshine and only a light wind which was very different to what had been forecast.